Knots & rigs

Use it for: Line to a hook, lure or swivel (mono or fluoro)

The everyday workhorse - if you learn one knot, learn this. It ties line straight to a hook, lure or swivel and holds well in monofilament and fluorocarbon up to moderate strengths.

Tip: For line over about 12 lb, and for any braid, switch to the Palomar - the clinch can slip in heavy or slick line.

Use it for: Braid to a hook or lure (excellent in mono too)

The strongest simple knot there is, and the first choice for braided line. It keeps close to the line's full breaking strength and is hard to tie wrong.

Tip: Make sure the loop passes fully over the hook before you cinch, and always wet it - friction heat is what weakens a rushed knot.

Use it for: Joining two lines of similar diameter (main line to leader)

A reliable, forgiving line-to-line join that works for mono to mono, fluoro to fluoro, and even braid to mono. It is the easy alternative to the fiddly FG knot.

Tip: Use 5 to 6 wraps on thin braid so it does not cut into itself. For a big diameter difference, step up to the FG knot.

Use it for: Braid to a fluorocarbon or mono leader (low profile)

The thinnest, strongest way to join braid to a heavier leader - so slim it slides through the rod guides on the cast. It rewards practice and is worth learning for lure fishing.

Tip: It is genuinely fiddly at first - practise at home. The Double Uni is an easier join that still holds very well.

Use it for: An open loop at the hook for free lure and fly action

Leaves a fixed open loop at the eye so a lure or fly can swing and dart freely instead of being held stiff. It brings crankbaits, jerkbaits and streamers to life.

Tip: Keep the loop small, just big enough to give action. Check it after a hard fight, as loop knots can work loose.

Use it for: Joining two lines of similar diameter, especially leaders

The classic, streamlined join for building tapered leaders and mending line of similar thickness. It passes through guides smoothly and is a favourite of fly and coarse anglers.

Tip: Keep the number of wraps equal on each side for an even, strong knot. It works best when the two diameters are close.

Use it for: A fast line-to-line join, even for different diameters

The quickest join to tie on the bank, and more forgiving than the blood knot when the two lines differ in thickness. Ideal for adding a leader or tippet in a hurry.

Tip: Pull on all four strands at once so the knot seats evenly. A triple version (three passes) adds strength for braid.

Use it for: Line to a hook for bait, for a strong straight-line pull

Ties the line to the shank of the hook rather than the eye, so the pull runs straight down the shank for a powerful, positive hook-set. A favourite for bait rigs and circle hooks.

Tip: It works best with a hook that has an up-turned or down-turned eye. Keep the wraps neat and touching for full strength.

Use it for: Tying fresh line onto a reel spool

The knot for the very first job - attaching new line to the reel's spool (the arbor). It cinches down onto the spool so the line cannot slip when you fill it or fight a fish into the backing.

Tip: Wrap the line around the spool twice if it is very slick braid, or lay a strip of tape on the bare spool first.

Use it for: A standing loop in the middle of the line for a second hook

Creates a loop that stands out from the main line so you can attach an extra hook or fly partway up a rig. It is the backbone of many multi-hook sea and coarse setups.

Tip: Keep the loop short and stiff so it stands proud and the hook does not tangle back on the main line.

Use it for: Bottom-fishing soft plastics over open ground

A sliding-weight bottom rig that lets a soft plastic drift and hover naturally behind the sinker, while you feel the bottom through the weight. A staple for bass over open flats and points.

Tip: A longer leader gives the bait more freedom over clean ground; shorten it in cover. The bead also clicks on the swivel to add attraction.

Use it for: Weedless soft plastics in cover and weed

The go-to weedless rig for fishing soft plastics right into snags, weed and timber. The bullet weight sits against the bait and the hook point tucks back into the plastic so it slides through cover cleanly.

Tip: Peg the weight against the bait with a toothpick or a bobber stop for flipping into thick cover, or leave it sliding for open water.

Use it for: Finesse fishing a bait held just off the bottom

A finesse rig that suspends a small bait a set distance above the bottom, with the weight below the hook. Superb for pressured or inactive fish, because the bait hovers and quivers in the strike zone.

Tip: Let the weight rest on the bottom and work the bait with tiny shakes of the rod tip rather than dragging it.

Use it for: Bottom-fishing bait, letting a fish take line freely

A simple, sensitive bottom rig where the weight slides on the main line, so a taking fish feels little resistance and can move off before you strike. A mainstay of coarse and sea bottom fishing.

Tip: Use just enough weight to hold bottom in the current. On a bite, line runs through the weight so the fish feels almost nothing.

Use it for: Presenting bait just above the bottom

Uses a three-way swivel to hold the bait on a short link above a weight, keeping it clear of debris and visible to fish that feed just off the bottom. Common for predators and sea species.

Tip: Make the weight link the weakest part so a snagged lead breaks off and saves the rest of the rig.

Use it for: Suspending bait at a set depth

The classic way to fish a bait at a chosen depth and see the bite - the float suspends the bait and dips or slides away when a fish takes. From a simple bobber to a slider for deep water.

Tip: Balance the shot so the float rides low - a well-shotted float shows the shyest bite and offers little resistance to a taking fish.

Use it for: Finesse fishing for pressured bass - the "they always bite it" rig.

The 'they always bite it' finesse rig for tough days and pressured water. A short buoyant stickbait half on a light mushroom-head jig, 1/16 to 1/8 oz. Cast, let it sink, drag and pause - the bait stands up off bottom on its own.

Tip: Elastic 'ElaZtech' plastics float - that's what makes the tail stand. Do less: drag, deadstick, tiny hops. It works because it's boring.